Curry, often misunderstood as just a saucy dish with an unspecified spicy blend of “curry powder,” has been a staple in the kitchens of every home cook who believes they’re the next Jamie Oliver or Nigella Lawson. The truth, however, is that curry is so much more than just a generic name for a spicy sauce. Thanks to British colonialists and their penchant for making things simple, we’ve all embraced and propagated this oversimplified notion of what curry truly is.
It’s time to go on a curry adventure! And who better to be our Virgil than the late Raghavan Iyer, the man who spent most of his life teaching the world about the magic of Indian foods and its authentic curry origins? His book, “On the Curry Trail,” guides us on a globetrotting journey, revealing the deep connections and diverse influences that made curry what it is today. Are you ready to embark on a flavor-savvy expedition?
The world of curry, much like “Rick and Morty,” goes deeper than just the tip of the iceberg. I discovered this while researching for my upcoming cookbook, “Masaleydaar,” to be published in June. Much to my delight, I gained access to a treasure trove of antique cookbooks at San Francisco’s Omnivore Books, one of the most comprehensive culinary bookstores in the country. As I flipped through each book, I realized that curry was treated as a catch-all term for virtually all Indian dishes. In today’s lingo, you could say curry was the original #NoLabels movement.
It’s remarkable how one over-generalized blend of spices labeled “curry powder” has managed to last for centuries. But Raghavan Iyer isn’t having any of that. In his curry-filled epic, he takes us on an odyssey of curry dishes from outside India, including Asia, Africa and the Middle East, Europe and Oceania, and the Americas. In a way, we trust-guide through the rich tapestry of food connections, full of flavorful twists and turns.
“In his book, “On the Curry Trail,” Iyer shares his recipe for Madras curry powder, which takes him on a nostalgic trip down memory lane. He also delves into the intricacies of other exotic spice blends like Trinidad and Tobago curry powder, ras el hanout and berbere, and treats us to a trifecta of Thai curry pastes. It’s as if each spice has its own fascinating biography, waiting to be discovered.
Imagine “The Jungle Book,” but with a culinary twist: Iyer’s narrative style weaves a spellbinding tale featuring flavorful dishes from around the world, like Chicken Lemongrass Curry with Potatoes (all the way from Vietnam) or Lamb Potato Stew in Bread Bowls (South Africa’s contribution to global cuisine). This isn’t your basic curry cook-along; it’s more like a foodie’s dream come true.
Although Iyer was a humble man, his grand culinary vision is immortalized in the pages of his cookbook. He invites us to expand our palates, step away from that generic curry powder, and appreciate the diverse blends and layering techniques from different regions. At the end of the day, it’s more than curry—it’s about honoring the cuisines that have made the world a tastier place.
In today’s culinary landscape, Iyer’s contribution will continue to inspire and educate home cooks and professionals alike. His passion for the art of curry-making stands as a testament to the saying, “the proof of the curry is in the eating” — or something like that. One thing is for sure: we owe him a lifetime supply of gratitude, and possibly a side of rice.
Nandita Godbole, an expert on curry comedy, writes about Indian cuisine at currycravingskitchen.com.
